Elite-media whitewash!

So I was dutifully reading the long New Yorker article about “a quest to revive authentic Southern cooking,” by Burkhard Bilger. The subject is Sean Brock, a fanatically nostalgic chef in Charleston, South Caroline, who is seeking to recreate antebellum cuisine. This article must be at least ten thousand words long, but the only mentions of slavery are as follows:

The setup [of Brock’s two restaurants] seems to mirror the oldest divide in Southern culture: between slave cabin and big house, pot likker and plantation sideboard—between eating low on the hog (meaning pigs’ feet) and high on the hog (meaning tenderloin).

The Carolina rice industry all but disappeared in the decades after the Civil War. Some farms were abandoned during the fighting and reclaimed by tidal marshes; others couldn’t survive without slave labor.

Southern food once owed much of its variety and agricultural vigor to wild plants. One of the most valuable slaves on many plantations was the huntsman, who would forage in the woods every morning and afternoon. “He’d bring back herbs and plants to grow in the kitchen garden,” Roberts explained.

I don’t know much about history, but weren’t all the farms in the South dependent on slave labor? Wasn’t all the food that Brock and Bilger rhapsodize about created in a system built on slavery? Do you think that “huntsman” got to taste any of the herbs he foraged for? The whole article seemed a little like some prolonged essay on how wonderful the roads were in 1940s Germany.